Shiloh's Edge Climbing Team

Follow us on Facebook instead

2010-12-20T12:36:00.000-08:00

The Construction of our new climbing gym is underway. I've been keeping a better account of it's progress on the Facebook page. The Edge - Halfmoon

Find it. Like it. Suggest it to friends.

Thanks for following SE Climbing Team. I may not keep this blog going much longer. So follow on Facebook instead.

Native Americans were here.

2010-10-06T07:11:00.000-07:00

Wandering through the property right now is like floating through a sea of pink flags. Fifty feet in any direction is another pink flag and a little pile of dirt.

Our Edge climbing gym manager, Adam Catalano, arrived at the site on Monday around lunchtime to catch up with the archaelogical survey crew. After wandering for 15-20 minutes, he finally found them, nearly finished with what seems like several days worth of work.

Tracy, the foreman on the project, revealed that the test pits had uncovered three chert flakes, evidence that Native Americans had spent some time here making cutting tools and hunting as animals came down to the creek for a drink.

What does this mean???? Well, fortunately, the site is in the corner of what will be our parking lot, so if we give that area a 25' buffer and leave it undisturbed, we can move along with clearing land and erecting the building.

"The Edge - Halfmoon" on Facebook

2010-09-20T08:44:00.000-07:00

Wow. This is a huge project. You never really realize how large a building project is until you get into the thick of all the hoops and contracts of it all.
Right now we are on the CUSP of cracking that throttle wide open. This morning I dropped off a contract to the folks who will do the archaelogical testing. That will go down next week.

Once they clear that there is nothing of significence there, we can start cutting trees. Then it will be a huge rush to get in a foundation before the ground freezes, but I'm confident that it will happen. Once those first trees come down, it is going to just all go by in a blurr for me. I'm sure y'all will be "edgy" waiting for the opening, but I'll be rushing around like crazy.

I just put up a Facebook page for the gym (The Edge - Halfmoon) so you can "like" it and keep up to date on the progress.

Here's to hoping for clean dirt!

The Notch is AMAZING!

2010-08-23T12:14:00.000-07:00

The Shiloh's Edge crew got our first taste of Smugglers' Notch bouldering this weekend, with a trip up from Thursday night to Sunday morning. We began our climbing on Friday morning with some amazingly cool temps and incredible excitement at the boulders which where littering the notch.
As you drive up, you are literally swerving around unbelievable climbing boulders on a tiny 1.5 lane street. As you park the car, you can barely get your seatbelt off before you bolt over to the nearest incredible line that is staring you in the face. The rock quality is unbelievable, the angles superb and the climbing so varied.
JP, Izzy, Evan, Morgan and I got on tons of problems of all different grades. There are just too many to list. Evan, in typical Evan-style, got psyched on one very hard problem and spent much of his energy focusing on it. The Impossible Problem was a V7, but a critical hold broke three weeks ago, making it more like V9. Evan quickly sent that, but then set his eyes on a sit start into it. It has gone once or twice since the broken hold incident, and Evan really wanted to send it this V11/12 gem. He made some great progress, linking into the Impossible Problem, but had to throw in the towel late Saturday night as his fingers were bleeding from the sharp crimps.
Here is a video of Evan's best attempt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMz0q9Se2Ek

2010-08-17T12:10:00.000-07:00

July closed out with a great weekend up at Rumney for some sport climbing. It had been quite a while since I tied into the sharp end, but three days of throwing myself at tough routes really recharged my affection for roped climbing.
JP, Charlie and I made the journey up to NH for the final weekend of the month. We were excited to run into Murph, Jut, Michael and Sandra up there and get some of the spray down and the psych from the Rumney experts.
The weekend didn't produce any super-hard sends, but it did get the blood flowing and both JP and I are excited to do some more sport climbing here this fall.

Last weekend, I was back to pebble wrestling. On Friday, Ben and I ran up to Snowy Mtn to polish off a few things. The Cure is a short V8 that I had tried a few times before. The topout had always stifled me but this day was quite different. After just a few attempts, both Ben and I topped it out the first time our hands hit the lip. .....Really don't know why it was so hard before.
I then worked on finishing the V7 Never Been to Hueco. Several jumps to the topout produced the same disappointing result, however, with just a slight shift in the right hand crimp, I was able to snag the jump move and topout casually.
On Saturday, JP, Tyler and I visited the Hideaway and Happy Valley in Western Mass. It was great to see these new areas and sample some of the amazingly gneiss rock. We had a ton of fun working on problems of all grades, however, nothing big went down this trip. At the end of the day we ventured over to Happy Valley and were BLOWN AWAY by the beautiful gently overhanging walls. We threw ourselves on Sleeping Giant and after numerous attempts at jumping to the slot, we were forced to trek back to the car without a send among us.
We will surely be back for this route (if nothing else). It is one of the most fun V5s in the Northeast. Beautiful and varied holds, tall and committing, with a safe landing. Can't be beat.

The EDGE update

2010-07-26T07:35:00.001-07:00

Deposits have been sent to both the building company and Rockwerx, the climbing surface company.

Clearance has been granted to start clearing trees and preparing the site.

We are on the move!

Projects don't come together overnight though. So be patient and pray for no more glitches.

When will it open? I can't say for sure, other than 'early 2011'

Weekend update by JP

2010-06-28T12:23:00.000-07:00

Last week, we ventured up to The Stables in Saratoga for a quick Monday evening sesh. This is a long and interesting wall along the mountain bike trails up there. It has some decent lines, but many are super crimpy (so Ben loved them) and the topouts are the hardest part.
Although it is close to home, I'm not sure if it is worth many repeat visits.

Friday was a trip up north to MacKenzie with Aaron and JP and Saturday JP and I headed south to finish up projects at PKill. JP blogged about the weekend, so I'll just let him do the rest: www.weekendbouldering.blogspot.com

Happy Fourth. Careful with your digits.

Izzy nabs a Gnarnia FFA

2010-06-19T04:50:00.000-07:00

JP and I had the pleasure of showing a few new folks the incredible lines at Gnarnia. Evan and Izzy joined us on a hot summer Friday for a great day of sending. With the "Patio" complete and the Gnarwal as safe as can be (inherent dangers excluded), I was really excited to give it my best shot (at least from the Patio start).
We began the hot, sunny day at the Wardrobe boulder and I was able to get the first ascent of Flesh Failures (V6). Izzy gave great goes on the namesake V3 arete but wasn't able to mantle the topout. Evan ripped a hole in his tip while showing us the possible crimp-line between F.F. and Wardrobe. It will go, but may be hard (V8/9?)
We then moved up to the Gnarwal and both Evan and I topped it out from the Patio (V4/5). It is a super fun problem with a commitingly high heelhook and reach move.
After chilling in the shade of the Patio for a bit, we moved over to one more boulder where Evan got psyched on a HARD slopy arete (for a day with better temps), JP and I worked a new easier arete, which I sent first and called Chilled Soup (V5).
Izzy recorded Gnarnia's first FFA (first female ascent-yes, its a real climbing term) as she styled her way up Stuff of Dreams (V4). Her ascent was more smoothly done than ANY I have ever seen on it previously.

June has proven to be VERY WARM, but we must still climb. Evening sessions seem to be the way to role.

Find shade.

~ The Edge

New Gym Update

2010-06-15T13:27:00.000-07:00

Yesterday there was a Town of Halfmoon Planning Board meeting and public hearing. We were approved to go ahead with construction. So...trees will begin to come down, a steel building should be erected late summer, a climbing facility installed this fall, and if all goes well...opening an unbelievable new Rockwerx gym early to mid winter.

Pray for smooth sailin'

Summer Mank is upon us

2010-05-24T11:54:00.000-07:00

"Is that the new term?" asked a fellow climber as we handed him an excuse for falling off the wall.
The hot summer days seem to be upon us and with it brings the humidity that we call mankiness. When things just won't seem to stay dry for five minutes, even with an entire brick of chalk on both you and the intended hold...that's Mank.

This past weekend we made trips to MacKenzie on Friday and Peter's Kill on Saturday.
Ben and I had our hopes set high for MacKenzie, he with his eyes on Cartwheel and Shut Up Machine; me looking at finally polishing off Star Chores. The bluebird sky and blazing hot sun however, did not set up optimal conditions for these tough sends. We gave our best efforts, hid under boulders quite a bit and ended up only sending one new problem, a v4 that felt more like a V6 due to it's strenuous top out.

On Saturday, JP joined us for a trip to Peter's Kill and again we had our eyes on some the prize v7s of PKill. The day was cooler and overcast, but the clouds held in the humidity and it felt a bit like a rain forest under that canopy. After a quick warm up, I gave Village Idiot a few goes, but the crux move was off a slimy, wet slot and was not to be had that day. Ben gave goes on Mad Lion, figured out a great sequence, but the tiny crimp was too mank for the full send. Next on to Delicate Soul, a project of mine for several years. Today was the day for me though. First Ben got the send (after scumming all the best beta for the long lip traverse.) Then I finally rolled through all the moves in smooth style. JP also had great work for it, but ran out of gas before the send. Ben then repeated Tiger Style, a problem which continues to baffle me.

Here's to hoping for a nice cloudy summer. OR some great evening sessions

ADK season (despite the bugs)

2010-05-05T12:40:00.000-07:00

Since returning from the South, we have made a few trips up to the Dacks. We have been developing at Brant Lake just about every weekend and have established nearly a dozen quality lines. There is so much to be done up there, we are just getting started really.
Wardrobe Boulder so far - V2, V3, V6 and two projects cleaned.
Treeboob Boulder so far - V3, V4, V5 and two projects cleaned
White Chocolate Chip so far - V0, V1, V2, V3 and two projects cleaned
Gnarwhal - V4/5, V8/9 and three projects (only one cleaned thus far)

And there are still 6-8 other large boulders to get to work on.

We also made a trip to 9 Corners where Evan sent Thorazine and Bearded Arnie. I sent Bearded Arnie also and Power of Belief. Ben sussed out all the moves on Rip Curl and repeated a few lines.

The bugs have taken hold, but we're not going to let them stop this send train.

Choo Choo Baby. It's On!

HP Slopers - WHAT???

2010-04-08T13:05:00.000-07:00

Yesterday we ventured down to Alabama to slap the crazy slopy holds of HP 40. For us northerns, it was a truly humbling experience. We entered the incredibly condensed boulderfield, getting turned around in every direction to try to find our intended routes. However, because of the uniqueness of the wall, we recognized the Millipede wall right away.
All of the guys threw themselves at the classic V3 called BumBoy and got thrown off continuously. Evan and Luke were able to send in a few goes because of their long reaches, but the rest of us needed some extra time. I actually walked away for a half hour or so and tried something else and then came back to send with the next go.
A local helped unlock the beta for the remainder of the sends there and we moved on.
Everyone spread out in small groups trying lines that interested them.
Several of the classic moderates were sent but nothing very difficult. Some of the sends were: Uniball, Sideline, Bumboy, several V2s, and an epic hour+ session of Mortal Combat at the end of the day that ended with Aaron's last-go send.
We all decided that you would need to spend quite a bit of time down there to really get used to the style and climb some hard stuff.

This morning we woke up to a thunderstorm and took the day off. But tomorrow we'll do one more session (our third) at Little Rock City before heading home.

Been a great week down here...despite the 80+ temps.

The Rocktown Oasis

2010-04-06T05:03:00.001-07:00

Yesterday we tried to get an early start and beat some of the heat up at Rocktown. Things always take a little longer than expected, but we were hiking in by 9:30 and went straight to the Orb area.
Everyone did some nice warmups and a few of us began working the Orb, others tried Soap on a Rope, Double Trouble and a number of the other super fun problems right there. With shaded boulders and a nice breezy, the day seemed very pleasant. Aaron made incredible progress on the Orb, but with fried tips, Luke and I quickly decided that it wasn't the day for us on that problem.
After we had lunch, we made our way down the hill to Croc Block. As we walked down the hill, it quickly became evident that we were in for a scorcher. The face of Croc Block is over hanging and shaded, however, there was little place to retreat to while you rested or observed. Many of us got up to a cruxy slot move, however, it was Luke's big move beta that unlocked it for him and gave him the only send on it. He was able to latch a wide left hand pinch and launch for a right hand incut sidepull that many use as a left hand gaston.

As we were working the problem, Jess had been exploring a bit and found an incredible pool of COLD CLEAN WATER tucked into a cave. She began shuttling people down to the Oasis and eventually we were all taking turns splashing our faces and dunking our heads and feet. It really refreshed everyone and gave us new life to continue on for another hour of climbing.

We split the group, one to Pythag and the other to Blue. Kyle was able to send his Pythag project that he began on Saturday, but not much progress was made on Blue. On our way out, we returned to the Orb area for Aaron's last few goes and Carly's chance to finish a project from the morning. With absolute style and grace, Carly floated up her project first try and then came down and repeated it. After which she stood atop the boulder and proclaimed, "I own this problem!"

Twas a great day.

It's HOT AND SUNNY down here

2010-04-05T04:44:00.000-07:00

Some might enjoy the blazing sun and 85 degrees, but climbers are not quite so fond of it. Yesterday we chased the shade and today we'll do the same back up at Rocktown.
Some great sends went down at Little Rock City and some super progress was made (Evan and Luke on The Chattanooga V12)

We've been enjoying every drift of wind and every whisper of a cloud. Pray for more.

More to come...

We have arrived in the South

2010-04-03T20:40:00.000-07:00

After an uneventful 17 hours of driving, we have arrived and the sending has begun.

This morning we woke up to a beautiful VA sunrise, hoped in the vans and rolled straight on down to Rocktown. We completed the twisting, turning hill climb at 1pm, grabbed a quick lunch and then made our way in for some amazing sendage.

Some of the routes that went down for folks were: Nose Candy, Sherman Photo Roof, The Scoop, The Anti-scoop, Pythag, The Hobbit, and Golden Child,

The day was warm and sunny with a few nice cloudy breaks here and there.

Tomorrow we'll head up to LRC

Happy Easter, y'all.

DACKs are BACK

2010-03-23T12:05:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, JP, Kyle and I rolled back out to 9 Corners for the first time since the snow fell and spit me off. Well, this time, I had three months of training under my belt and was ready for this plum of an Adirondack line. On the most beautiful face in the entire area, lies the most natural line, Thorazine - V8.
When we arrived, a few of the holds were damp from some seeping. We chalked and dried them and then went to warm up. Kyle had had his eyes on this hanging death flake called Sudden Death - V3, for quite some time. With a little inspiration from the guys already trying it, he jumped on and showed them how its done. He inspired me to do the same. HOLLOW!

Then onto slay the dragon.

It took a few goes to prime the holds for sending, but after about 3-4 tries, I polished it off. JP gave his goes as well, putting together a few more moves, but still unable to stick the bump move mid route. Next time, I'm sure.

We then moved up the hill to Kyle's project from last fall, Ice Cold - V7. He proved that he's got the moves locked down, all the way to the strong shouldery move to get to a resting jug. I gave it some goes as well, moving through the jug once when starting two moves in and then also getting to the shouldery move from the sit start. It should go for the both of us next time.
We also worked on Absolute Zero - V8, which starts three moves left of Ice Cold and traverses in and finishes the same. The opening moves were worked out pretty quickly, but it will be an endurance finish, even more-so than Ice Cold. We also did some fun variations on Nippin' Out - V3 to train on a slopy finish, and then we called it a day.

We are SUPER PSYCHED for returning to the ADKS after a long winter spell.

Spring Day at Lincoln Woods

2010-03-10T11:15:00.000-08:00

Before I had ever even been to 'the Woods' I had heard of its gym-like qualities. "It gets mobbed there" and "There are so many variations, you should probably use tape" are the kinds of comments I'd received. And on this beautiful spring Saturday, I began to see the reality of these descriptions.
On our two previous visits, we had nearly the whole place to ourselves. One was a frigid winter day and the next was just a bit warmer.
This past Saturday began calmly enough. We started at the Tombstone Boulder and had it to ourselves for about 90 minutes, before Paul Robinson rolled in with two others to warm up. We had completed our routes, so we moved over to the hilltop boulders with Iron Cross V4 (which everyone sent quickly) and the Cave. That is when the mob scene began. The Cave Boulder is one with about 15 routes in a 30 foot section of wall. We took our turns on things like Rump to Jump, The Clutch, Neil's Lunge and New Dimension. We all got Neil's Lunge but despite good work, didn't finish any of the others.
We then scouted out a few other boulders but ended up down at the Try Again wall, which is another 15 problem wall in 30 feet of space. The crew there was working a cool V8 called Diesel. I took one go at Try Again but the ledge was just too painful for that late in the day. Kyle tried again, and again and again. The most fun route on the wall looked to be Loadies Zen V6, so after cruising to the jump move and flying right past the hold, I decided to try it statically. Although the prescribed method is a cool jump, I much prefer slow and in control, so I pinched, perched and moved slowly to the top, completing the classic route in three tries.

Lincoln Woods is a very nice and compact boulder field, which I believe is best kept for the dead of winter. I'm pretty sure that we won't return there until the crowds have dispersed and Thanksgiving has passed us by. Have a great summer RI.

Great day at Gunks before the big snow

2010-02-24T10:57:00.001-08:00

Monday I was able to get out randomly (usually I'm home with Nora on Mondays) with Evan, Kyle and Billy Joel. It was a decently warm day for February, about 35 degrees and we began the day in the pass with Lorax and Jackson Pollock. Usually it is too windy to stop here in the morning, and we never get to try Jackson until the end of the day when we are tired.
Everyone made quick work of the Lorax (new sends for Kyle and Evan) then we worked Jackson. Evan completed in just a few goes, while the rest of us are still stuck controlling that swing.
Next we stopped at Winters Agony where Evan flashed and Billy gave it just one try. Then all the way down to Boxcar for Kyle to work that and Evan to work Bizmark V10. I also gave a few goes at Bizmark. No one sent but it feels like progress can be made so I'll be back when the snow melts.
With just about an hour left in the day, I hopped on a longtime project, Merrakesh Express V6. I enjoyed my visit to the city of Merrakesh in 2007 and since then have always wanted to do this crimpy traverse on the Nameless Boulder. After a few quick tries figuring out the foot beta, I was able to dispense with this cool line.
Finally, with 30 minutes left, Evan was getting frustrated with Enlightened Buddha, so I figured I'd give a go at the Gunks ultra-classic V7, The Buddha. With the guys spraying great beta and encouragement, I was finally able to send this project and complete a very fun day.

AHHHH! Why does it have to dump snow like this every time the climbing gets good?

Edelrid Mantle pad review

2010-02-19T19:11:00.000-08:00

Gotta give a shout out to Edelrid for the new Mantle pad. Just one day on my new Mantle and I'm sold. The foam is similar to the stiffness of the Organic pads. The accessories are awesome: carpet emblem for clean shoes, zippers two ways for 4'x4' or 2'x8', closure is bomber with pulling straps spreading force over a large surface and metal buckles. The sit pad that comes with it is great 2'x3' and carpet emblem again.
I was a bit nervous about fitting my backpack in the hinged pad. Would there be enough room with the sit pad as well. YES there is. Foam flexes nicely to carry it all (but I wouldn't leave it packed like that at home or it may kill the foam over time).
The ability to switch between traverse and normal pad seems like it may be gimmicky, but in the first day I had it I used it twice in traverse mode and three times normally.
All said...highly recommend.

Gunks Sending Spree

2010-02-15T13:41:00.001-08:00

The last two Saturdays we have made our way down to The Road to work out our projects. Day One saw lots of progress, but no sends whatsoever. Day Two, however, was a much different story.

February can be an amazing month for climbing or a despicable one. Because we are nearing Spring, it is possible to see the beginnings of warmer temps. By this I mean still below freezing but not the bone-chilling teens of January.

On the 6th, it was chilly in the low 20s with a constant breeze that made it feel like the low teens. The guys knew my project was Boxcar Arete, so we headed there first to warm up on the nearby moderates and give me some goes. I dialed in all of the moves to the sloping lip pretty quickly, but just could not manage to send. I even did just the top out moves in isolation, but the next go, didn't have the gas to finish.

From there JP and Kyle went on to work The Following. This usually chilly problem down in a hole was actually the nicest place to be that day, as it was sheltered from the unusual NE wind. Again, Kyle and JP did all of the moves to the problem but just couldn't manage to put the sequence together.

Ben and Aaron made great progress on Venus and Scorpio (V11) and Aaron also had some cool goes at Andrew's Roof, an insane looking V9.

But as I said, on the 6th, no sends.

Exactly one week later, JP, Kyle and I met Michael and Sandra down on the Road and again headed straight to Boxcar. This day was actually pleasant, despite the overcast sky. The wind out of the NW was blocked by the Trapps and after warming up, I never looked for my gloves again.

On my first go at Boxcar, I made it to the lip and about 4 inches from the jug finish hold, but I fell and cracked Kyle in the nose on my way down. (Deepest apologies again, bro). The gang was patient with me. Kyle continued to work the lower sequence and I took long rests between goes. On my third attempt, I finally completed the route, which is a nice V8 for me. It took three good days of work, but I was content to do anything people wanted for the rest of the day.

We then went down the hill to Bismark (V10) and spotted Michael as he got his first send on that gem. The Following and Merrakesh were both wet, so no work could be done on those. As we made our way back, we stopped at The Buddha where Michael completed his V8, 9, 10 day, topping out Illustrious and Enlightened.

For the final stop, we wandered all the way over to the Near Trapps for JP to send his project, The Pearl (V8). After some very quick work, both he and Kyle got the send.

The projects have begun to fall. As the weather warms to comfortable, I'm sure the sending will increase dramatically.

Beautiful Spring? Day on the Road

2010-01-28T10:55:00.001-08:00

Every January there happens to be that one day that just warms up to like 50+ degrees and melts all the snow...well, that wasn't the day we climbed...that came two days later. However, Saturday the 23rd was a pretty warm day for January in the Gunks.

The greatness of the day began as we pulled into the parking lot, parking next to two friends already out climbing, we caught up to them quickly. And before leaving our car, we met some other friends (Murph and Mira) and some friends of friends (Sarah and Dan). The crew was ready to roll.

We slid up the icy path to warm up in the Gill Egg area. There are three classic John Gill V4 problems there, two of which I hadn't done yet. The Gill Egg is the pronounced Egg shaped boulder that nearly leans over the Carriage Path. I had never even come close on it but had to give it a go anyway. After one weak attempt, Murph showed me his beta for the jump problem (we are about the same height). Two goes later, I latched the jug ledge nearly statically and finally cracked the egg.

Next down the line is the Gill Crack which involves a big reach up from a solid hand jam. If you don't catch the jug, it is a frightening withdrawl of your hand as you fall. Sarah, who is shorter than I, floated up the problem and revealed the critical foot beta. I learned the lesson and quickly got the send. Murph and Dan put it away as well.

Around the corner is the third V4, Gill Pinch Roof. I had done this a few years ago, but JP had been projecting it for quite a while. This was his day for the send as he has gotten much stronger since his last go on it and walked it pretty easily. Many of us also worked the V7 variation called Ricans and White Boys. Good goes were had, but only Murph was able to hold the slopy pinch and finish the problem. A nice repeat for sure.

Moving on down the Road, JP got frustrated on Black Boulder AGAIN. But was super psyched to work Lynn Hill Traverse V8, a project for another day definitely. Next we passed Kyle at the Buddha and left him with some more pads and some beta. He later sent the ultra-classic V7. Great show.

I had my heart set on The Boxcar Arete, a Gunks testpiece V8. I had one day on it before with some decent work, but I felt the send was within reach today. On the second go of the day, I got through the heinous crimps to the slopy lip. The end was within site, but not within reach as I fell going for the jug, bouncing off the pad and into an icy puddle. Fun, Fun. I took about 5-6 more goes on it with sufficient rests in between, but never reached the lip again. It remains a project for another day.
On the way out we took a few burns on Jackson Pollock V8, but were out of time and energy for this crazy toe hook problem.

January trips to Lincoln Woods

2010-01-21T11:30:00.000-08:00

Despite the January snow, we have made two consecutive trips to Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island. The first was on the 9th and we hit up the Try Again boulder and the Pond Cave boulder on a rather chilly day. The day was decent for a while as we worked Try Again and Straight Again, but by the time we made it to the northern end of the park, the chill had set in. We did the Pond Cave traverse and the Buddhist and worked the V8 prize for a while, but to no avail.

When we returned a week later on the 16th, we were met with a beautiful sunny day and about 40 degree temps. We began the day at the best moderate in the park, Heart of Glass, V4. After working it a while, another crew rolled over to give some goes on it and they had the actual beta. They told us we were starting halfway through the V8 section and could begin the V4 up higher. Hummmm. Soon after, every one of our crew sent the fun problem and we rolled on up to the Pond Cave for more goes on the dynamic Who Needs Hueco V8 and Leap Frog V7. Our group worked the V8 for a while, I gave some goes on the V7, getting to the jump move, but never sticking. Kyle and Luke had the best work for the V8 and after a number of goes, Kyle stuck the jump and continued on up the face. At the end he reached into a sopping wet hold and slipped off, but I think we are all giving him the send on that. He made it past all the hard moves and with a dry hold it would have easily been completed. NICE SEND KYLE. Video enclosed...

This weekend looks to be nice at the Gunks. See you on the Road.

New Feature added to blog

2010-01-06T13:45:00.001-08:00

I have added a new gadget on the sidebar. It is a "Tough to Find Bouldering Topos" link list. With the disbanding of Dr. Topo guides, it may be increasingly difficult to find free topos. Here are the few that I have on my computer that are no longer available on Dr. Topo (or never were). Horse Pens 40 (hp40), Rocktown, and Little Rock City.

LRC isn't a free for all, so don't just show up and climb. You must respect what has been put in place for climbing there. Remember to check out www.seclimbers.org for info on how to register for the day there. There are a few steps to take, but it isn't too much of a hassle.

Have at 'em.

Christmas Break outings

2010-01-04T11:13:00.000-08:00

Just a few little trips went down over the school break. Twas dampened a bit by CONTINUOUS snow that week.
On the 28th, Aaron, JP and I ventured north to the Adirondacks on a snowy morning to scope out a new area that JP had suspicions of greatness for. The day started out well when the business owner that we asked to allow us to park was very amicable and said, "Sure, lots of people hike back there." Good sign for future access :-)
Not ten steps into the woods, we caught a glimpse of our first decent sized boulder, from it we saw another, from that a 70 foot high wall and MANY more boulders. As we checked each boulder, we saw at least one line up it and sometimes several. The gem of the day was a 30 degree overhanging face that has a line on its left arete, one on its right and possibly a double digit line up the middle. We didn't even bring pads or shoes along, because of the snowy conditions, but we are VERY excited to return in the spring and clean the beautiful lines.
As we hopped in the car for the return trip, we were quickly engulfed in whiteout conditions, making the day that much more surreal and exciting.

On the 2nd, JP and I said, "we got lots of snow up here but lets go to the Gunks anyway." The weather forecast was for 30-40 mph winds and 25-26 degree temps, translating into about 8-9 degree wind chill factor. Ah, what the hey!
Getting out of the car was a bit breezy. The walk through the pass at the Steel Bridge was down right frigid, but by the time we got to Black Boulder, the sun was out and it was actually warm. We cleaned the top and did some warming up. We then moved on to The Following, which was very easy to brush clean and dried instantly. We played a bit but weren't psyched about the number of pads we had for such a jumbled and awkward landing. So no real committing attempts.
Next I hopped on Merrakesh and was able to go through the crux for the first time. So progress there.
Finally we walked all the way back over to the Near Trapps and JP worked The Pearl for a bit. He has dialed in the bottom section and just needs to stick the jump net time the rock is a bit warmer.

All in all, it was a decent day of playing on cold rock. It would have been nice to get some new sends, but hey, that's the game we play. And in the cold weather, I don't feel so bad about not hanging on long enough to top out. THAT ROCK IS NOT PLEASANT TO THE TOUCH.

Winter Day at GB

2009-12-20T16:44:00.000-08:00

WOW it was COLD. Actually we started out the day less than psyched. Michael, Ben and I hit up the Probe boulder to warm up, but there was no warming done for several hours. Not long after we got there, along came Aaron and Tyler (a new guy from Wisc/VA). After discovering that we weren't getting much done on the V9 Probe, we moved over to the Speed boulder to get some work in on harder stuff ??
Ben made some progress on Something from Nothing V10, stalling on the hard move for him. Michael made the best goes to date on his V13 (what???) project Roses and Blue Jays. I had no work whatsoever for the V8 or V9 up there.
We decided to move on down the line to the larger concentration of boulders so I could give a go at the Bump V8, something I had been working a few days and was hoping to send before ice enveloped the SPAC boulder. After the 10 minutes of walking, the day suddenly got warmer and our spirits much higher. Ben got the repeat on Bump, sending with the prescribed method, as did Michael, using his own beta. And I also got it second go of the day. Next project please...
We stopped up at Snooze to give Aaron the support/ spotting he needed to send it in a day. Good Work! And then moved over to the slopy Twisted Stihl V8. Michael quickly sent do show us the beta and then Ben and I gave it some goes for about 30 minutes. We weren't able to get to the slopy lip yet, but it feels fun and within reach. Possibly the next proj for me?? After I send Boxcar though ;-)

Merry Christmas all.

Dark Horse Series #2

2009-12-18T06:50:00.000-08:00

This past Saturday was looking CHIIIIILLLYYYY. So we decided to shuffle out to a the second installment of the MetroRock Dark Horse Series. This weekend was in their flagship Everett location, a beautiful and huge gym.
The problems seemed very reasonable and we started pulling down on some solid V6s. Ben, JP, Aaron, Luke and myself all scored some solid routes. And I believe that we were all happy with out sends for the day. Unfortunately, many of us tried too hard at the beginning and weren't able to finish five solid routes.
Ben got his five in, with a V7, two V6s and two V5s. I, on the otherhand, sent four V6s and could only score a V2 in the final minute of climbing to round out my scorecard.
Again we stayed for finals to watch some of the strongest climbers in the area go at it for cash money. In the girls division, Franny Metcalf cleaned up as usual, sending three of four routes. Our friend Melissa Gotkowski was the only other woman to complete a route and performed well for second place.
The guys division was pretty exciting, as Julian Bautista (he took third at ABS Nationals in 09) flew out from California for the event. Bautista sent #1, #3 and #4. Next was Vasya who sent all four routes but in five tries; he got the second one in two goes. Finally it came down to Rob D'Anastasio who needed to flash all four routes in order to take the prize. With the whole crowd cheering, Rob calmly brushed and inspected every hold of the final route. Hopped on and quickly flashed the route for the win.

The true win of the evening came for the Shiloh's Edge team though, as we took two of the three available raffle prizes. Me, a backpack and JP, a Thermarest. JP is the RAFFLE KING.

It seems that comps are over for a few months, so we're praying for sunny, warm winter Saturdays.

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL and to all a hard SEND.

The Snowy Winter Climbing begins

2009-12-10T10:56:00.001-08:00

We all knew it was coming sooner or later. Yes the snow has fallen over NY and blanketed many/all of our favorite climbing destinations. Chasing of the sun begins.

On Saturday we read the weather forecast first thing in the morning and decided that with the southerly storm, heading north would be the best idea. We met up with a few friends who showed us the lines on the Caroga Lake boulder. There were a few decent goes and some working of the hard problems before we broke for lunch and headed over to 9 Corners.

JP and I had our sights on Thorazine (V8), just about the most beautiful line at 9. After a few goes we were able to link up to the top move but before we could get the send, the snow began to fall and covered the tricky/slopey top out. As soon as the snow melts on it, it should go. (The final problem in the top video on the right is Ben on Thorazine this past summer)

Ben and Michael worked the unrepeated V11 on the same boulder. Overburdened begins with a V11 traverse into a V8 finish. Michael was able to link through all the V11 moves but was unable to go for the send as again the snow covered the top. Ben came up with some interesting and very powerful beta that may get him through those V11 moves (as he is much shorter than Michael).

All in all, we made a decent day of it, considering the amount of time we were hiding under the overhanging boulder to stay out of the snow.

After the large snowstorm we got on Wednesday, this weekend it is still up in the air whether we go to a comp or venture outdoors and shovel our way to the boulder.

Tis the SENDING season

Great late fall day at GB

2009-11-26T05:57:00.001-08:00

Last Saturday we returned to Great Barrington for a beautiful chilly fall day. We began the day at the Probe Boulder for the first time in over a year. The warm-up is a fun V2 that went pretty quickly for all. JP and I then set our eyes on a V5 Kettle Traverse that goes into the warm-up while Ben and Kyle worked on the V9 Probe.
After a handful of tries, I was able to put together the traverse for the send. JP then continued working it and was able to traverse all the way to the final moves but slipped off and couldn't get back to that spot again. Next time for sure.
Kyle and Ben weren't able to connect the first moves but they feel good about future days on it.
Next we walked 10 minutes down to the SPAC boulder. Ben and I worked the V8 Bump, Kyle looked for a repeat on SPAC and JP began prepping for Snooze Button V5. Ben and I are both VERY close on to sending. JP waited patiently for all the pads to be moved up the hill under his project. He then gave it some really good goes but the Kettle Traverse had stolen his finger tips and his best goes at Snooze.
Finally we ventured up the hill some more to check out Two Stroke and Big Hairy White Thing. Both of those were still a bit wet from the rain Thursday night so we put some work in on an unknown but beautiful looking climb. After about a half dozen goes, I was able to pull through the tough opening sequences and cruise the easy top out for my second send of the day. We later found out that this fun line was a V5 called Wasabi.

All in all a great day and we are all very excited to return to these projects again, hopefully before the snow flies. JP put together a video of the day. Check it out at www.weekendbouldering.blogspot.com

We'll take a Thanksgiving break and then go out again on the 5th, either outdoors or to the CT Rockgym comp.

Happy T-Day

Dark Horse Comp. Series

2009-11-16T16:40:00.001-08:00

Saturday's rain left us with no guilt at all about traveling to the Mass Coast for an indoor comp at Metro Rock Newburyport. The huge event featured a cash purse that drew some of the strongest climbers living in the Northeast. Some of the pros who showed up included Phil Schall, Ty Landmon and Brian Kim. There were probably close to 200 competitors ranging from 5 yrs old to 45 years old (99% under age 25).

Luke had a good showing, placing 3rd in Advanced. JP and I finished about middle of the pack in Advanced with JP beating me by 5 points. Jess did well also, finishing 2nd in Women's Intermediate. Ben came out but was sick a few days before the comp, so he didn't compete, just encouraged and chatted. Other friends who showed up to compete were Izzy, Michael and Sandra.

Even though it was a 17 hour day, the comp was fun and it was exciting to watch the Pro Finals. They are SO STRONG and left us all aspiring to climb hard as well.

Hopefully one of our many possible climbing destinations will stay dry enough to climb outdoors this Saturday.

Last day at Snowy before it snows?

2009-11-12T12:52:00.001-08:00

Veteran's Day was a beautiful day up at Snowy Mtn. Boulders. The crew of Luke, JP, Izzy, Jess, Aaron and Adam rolled up there for some ADK sendage before the snow begins to fall.

The day goes to Luke as on his first visit to Snowy he sent nearly all of the classic problems. His tick list was: (Coit V6, SMAC V8, Insomnia V6, IHOPP V6, Never Been V7).
SMAC got the smackdown that day as Luke, Aaron, JP and I all sent the soft V8. Aaron also sent Never for his first V7.

You just couldn't have asked for a better day. Maybe we'll get another in before winter?

Oh. One last note...A very generous man named Matt from down south GAVE Jess a brand new pair of Solutions in her size. WHAT? Talk about a good day!!!

Beautiful Fall Day at the Gunks

2009-11-12T12:33:00.001-08:00

What can I say? The Gunks is just amazing in the spring and fall, but the cool temps of the late fall are the absolute best. On Saturday we headed down there with a crew of 5 (Ben, Aaron, JP, Jess and myself) to dispense with a few long standing projects.
JP texted me in the morning: "Meaning of Life will go today." My simple reply was "Yo"
After a quick warm up at Black Boulder, which Aaron sent for the first time, we trucked it right to Meaning. After just a few burns and sussing out beta a little better, both JP and I put it to bed.
Next was The Following, another project of mine. Ben repeated it quickly and pointed out one key maneuver. I then sent it first go of the day. JP and Aaron gave it some good burns but no sendage.

Next stop was Merrakesh Express, a crimpy, traversing V6. Ben got the quick repeat. Aaron put it down after a bit of work. I worked it a while, got a few moves further than previous days but no send for me.

Moving on down the line, we hit up Boxcar Arete (V8). Ben showed me the beta with a stylish repeat. I made some great progress on it and am really psyched to get back another day when I have fresh skin. That thing gives you bruises on every tip. I've got all the moves, so hopefully it will go soon.

On the return trip down the Road, we stopped at The Buddha. Aaron got Andrews (V4) but none of use had much left for the signature V7.

But wait, one more stop. It's not quite dark yet. Jackson Pollock V8. Many good attempts at this short line. And it should definitely go next time, so long as we hit it up before burning ourselves out on other projects.

Great Gunks day. Can't wait for Winter on the Road.

Gillette V6 attempts

2009-10-12T18:00:00.000-07:00

Cool Fall Day at Triple Right

2009-10-12T17:35:00.000-07:00

Columbus Day is an incredible day for outdoor climbing. The cool temps are incredible, the leaves are falling, the crowds are low.
Today we hit up Triple Right outside of New Paltz for an unbelievable day. We were all still a bit sore from Saturday's session, but we couldn't pass up this perfect/available day.
We began with warming up around the Neapolitan boulder. Many sent this namesake V3, I was able to stick the V5 dyno to the left and JP did a nice linkup of the two (left to right). We then moved on to Gillette a dyno V6 and Mach 3 the sit start V9. Ben and Michael worked the harder route for a bit while JP, Kyle and I worked the V6.
After many tries, I snagged the blind throw for my second dyno send of the day. If you know anything about my climbing style, dynos are not in that repetroire. I'm a trad climber by trade and I like things static and with both feet on. I was psyched to have stuck two harder dynos in a day.
From there we moved over to Dydactic Tactics. Michael made good progress on Lactic (the lower start) and got to the slopy lip. Ben worked up it quite a ways, but Kyle and I had trouble getting to the midway rest.
Our final jaunt was doing laps on Captain Bring Me Down V5. Some sent the whole thing, others started at various spots to work out moves. Some ran laps eliminating holds and others played on nearby problems. It was a great area to get a final burn in, as the routes are overhanging with decent holds to get a good last pump going.

I can't wait for more fall climbing. Heres to hoping the next few weekends are dry.

Nice day at GB

2009-10-11T12:25:00.001-07:00

After a rainy night and some real skepticizm on my part, we headed out to GB Saturday morning. The morning was pretty wet and finding things to work was a bit of a challenge. However, as the day progressed, things dried out nicely and lots of good climbing went down.

We began by working the sit start to our "Shade" problem. Many made great progress, but the send is still elusive. We then went uphill to try Snooze Button, but with the top-out still wet, we just worked out the lower moves for a while. Ben and Michael worked on a V10 by Fatwa and also a very fun looking project to the right of Snooze Button.

As Ben, Michael and Sandra moved over to some harder stuff, JP and I went back to his Bromance V5 to get some video of the sendage. JP quickly resent (video in previous post), but I could not make the big move. JP still has the only ascent we know of.

We then caught up with the others at the Speed Boulder. Ben was working Something From Nothing V11. JP and I did the V4 heel hook problem up the hill and a few variations thereof. We also sent a really cool arete behind that which I flashed and we estimated to be about V2 with some really fun moves.

We finished the day off with some of the best Burritos I've had at Azteca down in town.

Great Day. Good call JP.

Heading to Triple for the Monday holiday. Should be great temps.

JP's Great Barrington V5 - Bromance

2009-10-11T12:18:00.000-07:00

JP is still the only one to have sent this problem (as far as we know. We cleaned it a few months ago). This is the flash resend. I worked it after him, but to no avail. I can't keep my foot from instinctively stepping back on the boulder to the side.

Way to go JP. Climbin' Strong.

Competitions have begun

2009-10-09T09:19:00.000-07:00

I guess it has been a few weeks since an update but we are still going strong both indoors and out.
Two weeks ago we made the trip out to Wendell State Forest in Mass. for the Western Mass Climbers Festival. The area had a number of climbing crags as well as a 109 problem bouldering circuit. The "Bouldering Comp" was based on your progress through the circuit and the winner would be the one who completed the most problems. It was a comp unlike any I've been to and a unique area as well. Of the 109 problems, I'd say 80 were V0 or V1. The race was on. Throughout the day there were periods of speed climbing and others of working on harder problems. Ben and JP completed 60+ problems while Kyle and I slowed down to do some of the harder ones and did about 30 each (Not to say Ben and JP didn't send hard stuff too).
Needless to say, the winner of the comp was Maxim, an uber-strong climber from Boston Rock Gym. He sent all 109. Ben did place and won a pair of shoes.

This past weekend we began our indoor competitions with a trip up to Burlington's Petra Cliffs. As always, it was a fun comp and just about all of those involved with the Shiloh's Edge team (regularly or occasionally) placed well in the comp. It was a long day, 12 hours round trip. But worth it, absolutely.

Monday, the new climbing gym in Niskayuna opened up, J-PeaCity. Yes, JP and his dad built a nice wall in their garage and I lent him my holds until his come in and my new homewall goes up.
We spent a good 3 hours setting new routes on Monday night and because of the rain this weekend, will probably end up in there Saturday as well.

Fall temps are nice, but there is always the chance for a soaking rain as well.

Southern Adk Rock Climbing Festival

2009-09-15T11:15:00.000-07:00

On Saturday we made our way up to the SAdkRF for a little bouldering comp. When I say little, I mean LITTLE. Four competitors came up with me and there were probably no more than 6-8 others from various areas. As soon as we put our shoes on, it started raining. It rained and rained and rained some more.
Luke and I tried to beat the precip first thing in the morning and got on top of a tall boulder via a V1 arete and then the skies openned. We scrambled around up there for 5-10 minutes looking for a safe way down. After that we hide/climbed in an amazing cave for the next few hours. Ben and Luke worked an open project that was a crimpfest on a 45 degree wall. They made great progress, getting about 3/4 of the moves worked out and linked. The next move from their high point will probably be the crux of this V10/11 project. It is a jump to two decent slot holds off of a sidepull, a bad crimp and low/no feet. Really great work by Ben linking up to the high point.
When the rain subsided for about an hour, we walked the circuit and found some 'drier' V0s, V1s and V2s. We then returned to the cave to show some other folks the progress that has been made and finally worked a wet, sloppy V3 but to no avail.
At the end of the day, I ended up with the most points, winning the competition with a V2 high problem. Ben took second place.
Really it was a funny comp day, due to the rain. I can't imagine what would have gone down if it were dry. My previous disdain for Crane Mtn has been lifted though, due to a wet day that inspired me to come back and finish climbs when they are dry.

I'll be back for you Leviathan.

Beautiful Days at GB and PKill

2009-09-08T11:19:00.000-07:00

This weekend was absolutely incredible for climbing. On Friday afternoon, Luke, Evan and Pinto and I rolled out to Great Barrington after Greg's funeral. A somber day for sure, but in honor of Greg, we had to climb. It was a quick 3 hour workout, but some great progress was made on the Bump (V8) for both Evan and I. Pinto sent after a number of tries and gave us the foot beta for next time we try it fresh. We then hopped on the Platform V6, Pistol Grip V6/7 (sent by myself and Luke) and Pinto worked Fatwa V9.

On the Monday holiday, we rolled down to New Paltz for a full day at PKill. No one sent anything huge. Ben got the Classic One (V5) and I made tons of progress on two fun V7s Village Idiot (consistantly getting to the final pop for the top.) and Delicate Soul. The weather was perfect for climbing, cloudy and about 65 degrees. We all got pretty burnt out by about 3pm after working really hard on our projects.

Miss ya Greg

2009-09-02T13:00:00.000-07:00

The NY climbing community has lost a great friend in the passing of Greg Beaudet last week. It has been a few years since he was living in the area, but his family and friends are still here and he would visit occasionally and, I'm sure, make the trip to the Gunks. If you are a boulderer at the Gunks, I'm guessing you'd recongnize him. In his senior year of high school, we spent quite a few days together down at the Gunks. He taught me how to boulder, and I introduced him to trad climbing.

Greg was ALWAYS a joy to be around. His energy was infectious; he was care-free, and he never had a bad attitude about anyone or anything. When he came to the competitions, everyone was excited. He was a high flyer, an encourager, and always climbed for himself, never to prove that he was better than anyone. His forearms were gigantic, dwarfed only by his heart and smile. His style was dynamic and powerful and although he was only about 5'6", I have NEVER seen him beaten in a dyno comp. I have set problems for every E-City competition and if we were concluding with a dyno showdown, we set knowing that only Greg could get the final one.

After he graduated high school, he went off to the Navy and became one of the best rescue swimmers they had. I'm sure he showed no fear jumping out of helicopters into the water. He had probably fallen from greater heights onto just 4 inches of foam and carpet. After entering the Navy, I didn't hear from him much. He was stationed in San Diego and Florida and spent time in the Persian Gulf too. We'd talk one or twice a year. His brother and father I would still see around, but not much was discussed besides "How's Greg doing? When's he coming home next?"

He had been a part of the Shiloh's Edge program; joining us on Saturday mornings for the indoor climbing league and on our trips out to Joshua Tree for spring break as well. I really wish I could keep up with all the kids who have ever been on a Shiloh's Edge trip, but unfortunately, life just doesn't afford that. I hadn't seen him in quite a while, but now that he's gone, I'm really kinda missin' him.

Tons of work at McKenzie

2009-08-22T08:51:00.000-07:00

The beatiful line of Flux Capacitor

My computer has been down for a few weeks...still out for repair, but tons of sending has gone down the first half of August - despite the HUMIDNESS.

McKenzie has been our destination of choice as we have been trying to get Ben as many goes on Flux Capacitor before he heads off to school. We went up on the 7th with Jess and Izzy for a great day. Tons of moderates went down, but no one got their projs that day. Ben did send Committed a V6 on the IF boulder. And Kyle and I both sent Providence, a committing V5.

On the 8th, JP and Kyle and I did some sport climbing at Shanty, a fun little cliff between North Creek and Wells. We did Shantytown 5.9, and a short .10a and .11a closeby. Really an enjoyable cliff. Have to return sometime.

On the 9th, Ben and I went back to McKenzie and he finally sent Flux Capacitor, a very proud V8. His first attempt of the day, he got to the jugs but couldn't top out. Then about an hour later some French Canadians were wondering how the problem went, so Ben jumped on to give them some beta. After 4-5 goes for them, he sent his summerlong proj. NICE WORK BEN.

On the 10th, we visited Crane Mtn Boulderwoods for the first time. And ummm, probably the last. It was super buggy, rock was wet and really chossy in spots. There are a few decent lines there I'm sure, but it's gonna take some convincing to get me back there. Maybe if it has been a super dry week in late October or something, I'll consider it. Ben and Kyle did a V6 called Vitamin I, but I didn't find anything inspiring enough to put my digits to the 4-days-on test.

On the 15th, Ben and JP and I met Kyle up at McKenzie for yet another day. Again, nothing huge went down. Ben worked Super Karate Chop for a while and we did a bunch of moderates and repeats.

Back rested and ready to send

2009-08-05T12:21:00.000-07:00

After taking nearly two full weeks off to rest my tendons, we got back to ADK bouldering and kicked it off with some great sends.

Ben and I went out to 9 Corners last Monday and found the Froggy boulder. Froggy is a V4 with a really high start, so high that we weren't sure we were looking at the right boulder. After stepping on and giving it a few half hearted attempts, we decided that this was what we were looking for and put in the full effort necessary for the send. We then worked on the two V9s on that boulder, but couldn't make much progress without the correct beta.

On Saturday a decent sized crew rolled up to Snowy Mtn boulders, one of my favorite areas in NY. With it's sandstone like rock and pocketed overhangs, it is just an ideal and unique cluster for the Northeast. The weather on Friday was not conducive to climbing (it was an all day soaker), however, I remembered climbing at Snowy a few weeks earlier after an evening of rain and all was dry, so we gave it a go.

PERFECTO!!!

As we found out, Snowy is the ideal place for climbing when all else is still wet. With just 10-12 hours of dry weather, everything is doable. And the send train started rolling early.
Sam threw down the most classic V6 there after just a few goes; Kyle repeated it. I sent a really fun V5 Pumpkins Arete next to it.
We then moved on to IHOPP, one of my favorite climbs in the ADKs. I had worked it a ton last visit here and was able to send it first try this visit. So Fun. Sam also sent IHOPP and a repeat send for Kyle.
Then we moved up to the Cave boulder and played on the giant huecoed roof, sending a V2 and a V3 and an easier variation to the V6 The Sickness.
Next stop was the Never Been to Hueco boulder...Kyle and Sam both sent the V7 and I am much closer than before. Kyle then hit the lip on the V8 and feels like it is within his reach for the next visit.
And finally, we stopped at the Poisonwood boulder and sent a V5 called The Uninspired. Sam also worked the V6 Liar, Liar.

Many thanks to Buzzy for his beta spray, encouragement and spotting. It is always great to climb with someone who knows the problems and wants to see you get up them.

ADKs all summer

2009-07-23T09:59:00.000-07:00

Last weekend, JP, Ben and I hit up 9 Corners on Friday for another go at 007. After some work, Ben got the send for a pretty stout V7. I am still taking it easy on my tendons so my new send of the day was Can You See My Eyeball (V3) and JP also got a new send for himself - Mannequin's Leg (V3).

On Saturday it was just Ben and me and we had McKenzie Pond Boulders to ourselves all day. It was still a bit wet when we arrived so we warmed up on some easier problems for a bit and then headed over to Flux Capacitor (Ben's V8 project). We did some drying of holds on that and Star Chores (my V8 proj) and then Ben took a crack at a send-go. AHHH!!! so close. He got to the jugs at the lip but couldn't find the critical crimp to finish the problem. Subsequent goes didn't go nearly as well. And the project stands for yet another day. We tried a V9 for a while, and then I worked Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few tries before sending it. I've got one more V5 to send at McKenzie.

Monday I took off and will take this weekend completely off as well. We have a ropes course group on Saturday and my fingures can use the rest.

Climbing resumes soon. Keep abreast of all the sends right here.

Awesome ADK Weekend - 3 days on.

2009-07-14T12:16:00.001-07:00

This weekend a crew of us rolled up to the Dacks for a bouldering tour of the greatest areas the Adirondacks has to offer.

We began at 9 Corners Lake on Friday afternoon. There were some great sends and good efforts all around. Ben sent his V8 project (Thorazine) on the second go and then did it again for the camera. Aaron (new to the Shiloh's Edge crew) sent Pop or Drop, a committing V4 after the rest of us dropped off a bunch. Izzy (also new to the crew) sent Meat and Potatoes after working it a number of times. Good sends guys. There was also a lot of work done on 007 (V7).

Saturday we headed up to McKenzie Pond. Izzy made good progress on Brock Lee Soares but just couldn't hold the crimp long enough to grab the first jug. Great effort on it though - watch the video. JP has had his eyes on Drop the Clutch (V5) for a few weeks and finally got back up to try again. Second go and it was over. Good send JP. I jumped on Thrust Fault sporting my new shoes and sent it first try of the day (I had tried a few times on previous occasions). Aaron sent Dickins (V4) pretty quickly and Izzy sent another V1. Ben and I both made little progress on our V8 projects. (Flux for Ben and Star Chores for me.) We decided to head out and save our skin for Sunday at Snowy.

Snowy was a send fest for many. Jump (V6?) went down by just about everyone but with stacked pads. Kyle was the only one to get it (also only one to try it) with one folded pad. This began the send train for him. He finished off Coit, IHOPP, and the V6 lip traverse on the Pancake boulder for 4 V6s in a day. Ben sent SMAC (V8) with not too much effort (maybe a half dozen goes). Izzy sent a V2 and a long V1 and made great progress on a V6 Coit. Aaron sent Pumpkin Arete (V5) in just a few tries. And I have the sequence down on IHOPP but keep greasing off every send go. I'll get it next time. Its a really fun problem that doesn't hurt the hands at all.

Taking Monday evening off. More to send next weekend.

Monday Eve GB session - Finally dry

2009-07-07T10:50:00.000-07:00

JP nearly catching the Pistol Grip.
Ben with a proud send of a V9, Fatwa

After about half a dozen wet climbing days, we finally got a good evening of completely dry conditions, perfect for sending. And sending is what went down.

We began with some classic easier stuff. Some warm ups, the classic V3 andV4 and then a lesser known V2 and a first for us. It was a very fun problem just to the left of Scary Mantle-o. Kyle also sent a committing crimpy problem over by the warm ups that is of unknown rating. A good send, as the rest of us fell off a few times and never sent.

After warming up and getting some good videos of the send train, we went up for Ben's project - Fatwa V9. He worked it a few times to get used to the first dynamic move and then about 15 minutes in, he caught the edge, held the swing and sent his first V9. CONGRATS BEN. Good work.

JP and Kyle worked Pistol Grip a bit, but to no avail and then they worked a very committing Snooze Button V5, also to no avail, but good progress was made. Ben then went up to try to finish off his other V9 proj, Filter. He felt good on it but couldn't make the link-up. It'll go next time...

We are very excited for future DRY days to come. And hopefully the mosquitoes will subside as the summer progresses. THEY WERE BAD last night. I actually had to use bug spray for the first time this year.

Day 3 - evening visit to Neverland Ranch

2009-06-30T11:28:00.001-07:00

Now that our "home" climbing gym has closed down, our Monday night sessions have moved outdoors. Last night was our first excursion and of course we went back to GB.
We met up with our friends Murph and Mira as we parked and brought them right to Neverland Ranch to warm up. Everything felt a lot easier now that it was dry and dirt-free. JP even sent another route, "White Glove" V3 all the way at the right end of the main boulder. Murph tried the "Thriller" project and agreed that the first move is VERY hard and will need some projecting.

At 7pm we packed up and moved back down the hill to work on our projects. JP and Kyle went to "Green Goddess" V7 and Ben went to "Fatwa" V9. I went up to spot Ben and found a fun looking V6/7 called "Pistol Grip" next to "Fatwa" that I decided to give a few goes on. Ben was making slow progress on his proj, so he decided to give a shot at Pistol Grip. After two or three goes, he got it and cleared dozens of spider webs out of the top out chimney. I was grateful. It took me another few goes but I got the send on that one as well. Ben went back to work on Fatwa.

Down the hill, we heard JP send Green Goddess and Murph send Shade (our V5 that we established last year). Murph then came up to help Ben with beta on Fadowah and he quickly began to make great progress, getting it in two pieces. Our time was running short and with little rest between goes, Ben was not able to get the send but is very confident that next visit he will send.

We got a text as we drove home that Mira sent Shade as well and loved it. Murph also worked Buckteeth, the sit start to Shade but couldn't unlock it either.

All in all, really a great session for the 2-hours we had out there. We are excited to continue rolling to either there or 9 Corners on Mondays throughout the summer.

Day 2 at GB

2009-06-30T11:14:00.000-07:00

JP and I ventured out Saturday for a second day in a row. We were very excited to find drier conditions and decided to try to get some climbing in rather than more development of Neverland Ranch.
We began with a route that Ben and I had developed last year but I had never completed, Shade V5. JP and I began work on it with a porcupine looking on from about 3 yards away. It is a powerful three move route. JP sent first and after numerous tries, I got the send as well. Next we began working a sit-start project to it called Buckteeth. It is about 10x more powerful and will probably go at V8-9.
Next we went up to Green Goddess, which I sent this spring but has been on JP's ticklist for a while. He made really good progress on it before a little drizzle came and dampened the line and our spirits.
Just as we were packing up to go clean up at "the Ranch", the rain stopped and we decided to try another new project that we scoped out a week earlier. It is an 8' sloping arete on the trail between the "Warm up boulder" and the "Spac boulder". After a little more cleaning and drying, I gave it a few goes and sent. We dubbed it "Closer" and call it a V4, the straight up dyno to the lip will be called "Farther" but we didn't have the power to do it at the end of the day.

Day 1 at Neverland Ranch, GB

2009-06-30T10:46:00.000-07:00

Call us obsessed if you'd like. Three out of the last four days we have made the trip out to Great Barrington. With all the rain we've had lately, our plan for Friday was to clean and develop a new climbing area that we had discovered the weekend before. As we expected, walking in in the morning was very wet. The rocks were dripping and there was a small shower on its way.

Kyle, JP and I headed right for what we would call "Neverland Ranch" with all the necessary tools for cleaning. My first mission was chopping a fallen tree off the top of one of the gem routes. Even though the outside of the trunk was rotten and spongy, it took a little longer then I had expected. As I chopped, I watched Kyle and JP "carpet roll" the top of the main boulder, clearing a 3'x12' section in a few minutes work. After finishing off the tree, I followed their example and "carpeted" off the top out of another route that I had my eye on, revealing a huge jug and a fun finishing move to the problem.

With 6-7 potential problems cleared, now came the task of cleaning off the dirt, mud and moisture enough to get the send.

The first to go was "Break of Dawn", the right leaning crack running up the middle of the main boulder. JP got the First Ascent (FA) and we dubbed it a V1. Next was a traverse that Kyle scoped, beginning at "Break of Dawn" and going all the way to the right end of the boulder. We dubbed it a V2 and called it "Moonwalk". The third line was an easy straight up in the middle of the boulder, "Billie Jean" V0. Next we went up to the routes I had cleaned. A 45 degree wall and a taller arete. The 45 degree wall was dubbed a V3 and we call it "Bad" due to the flakey nature of the wall. There is a huge jug on the lip, but rolling up the top out requires a very high foot and a powerful mantle move. The last route of the day was "Smooth Criminal" an arete climb that begins on a beautiful Jug, moves through two small crimp sidepulls and then up jug ledges to the top.

As the skies opened up with the typical summer afternoon rain, we scampered out of the woods and called it a fun day. Definitely making the most of a wet day out. (Pictures taken Monday night)

Two Wet Weekends

2009-06-23T11:42:00.000-07:00

The last two weekends have been incredibly rainy. We managed to get out on both Sunday the 14th and Friday the 19th, but there was not a lot of good climbing to be had.
Sunday we went to Peter's Kill with a large group of about 10 climbers and the only dry boulder was a decent one with 2 V7s and a V4. All problems were classics but I had sent the V4 last year and made some decent progress but never finished the V7s.
Kyle, Sam and another guy named Josh all sent Tiger Style, but no one completed Delicate Soul. The V4 was a quick repeat for just about everyone.

On Friday we went to Great Barrington and again everything was wet. We spent a good deal of time trying to dry a few routes but they just were never dry enough to send. We decided to explore for potential new routes. We were successful. EXTREMELY successful. There are many great new lines to be cleaned and we are excited to go back this Friday to begin work on them.

...If only the rain would kindly stick to the beginning of the week, so that things will dry out for Friday and/or Saturday sends....

Triple Right is AMAZING

2009-06-08T12:05:00.000-07:00

This weekend Shiloh's Edge/YFC had our annual walk-a-thon on Saturday, so instead I rolled out to a new area called Triple Right on Sunday with a few guys that I hadn't seen in a very long time. One, Sam, went off to college in Colorado last fall and another, Evan, took about 18 months off from climbing.
A full van load made the trip to New Paltz though, including Luke, part of the 'usual gang' and a few from the AIR gym that I hadn't really met yet.

The rock quality at this area is very good; part of the same escarpment which makes up the fabled "GUNKS". The area is a few miles north and back in the woods just a bit. There are many established lines but no guidebook as of yet.
None of our crew had been there more than once or twice, so we were a bit limited on finding routes. However, they knew of enough to get a great workout in and a feel for some of the more quality problems.
I was able to send 3 V5's (all second attempt), 2 V4's (one of which I cleaned and established for the FA) and a very fun V2.
I can't wait to return again with someone who is more familiar with all the gems around Triple Right.

A few McKenzie Videos

2009-05-31T11:41:00.001-07:00

Ben took a big fall because of the wet topout with a good catch by Kyle. He sent next go.

JP is very close on this V5 but one move seems to be a bit too reachy for him. Guess he'll have to figure out his own way to do it or wait to grow a little more.

I now realize that I have to shoot videos with the camera horizontally, not vertically. Oh, well. Here it is anyway.

Can't get enough of McKenzie

2009-05-31T11:18:00.000-07:00

For a second weekend in a row, we made the 2+ hour drive up to McKenzie Pond Boulders to work at some of our projects. Unfortunately as soon as we parked the car, it began to sprinkle. The rain fell for about 90 minutes, leaving us searching for dry rock or things to work on as soon as they dried up.
Finally around 1pm we were able to begin climbing. A few new V5's went down for folks. Kyle got Slot Machine, I sent Sweet Pea. Ben and Michael both sent a V8 variation to Slot Machine ( I am close). Ben made good progress on Flux Capacitor and I made good progress on the V8 that interests me, Star Chores, getting it in two pieces.
So despite the rain, our efforts just made us all that much more excited to return here soon. We've got many projects still to complete.

2 great Saturdays, 2 great ADK areas

2009-05-23T19:26:00.000-07:00

Wow! Two new areas to climb for me. The Adirondacks are just full of great bouldering.

My first visit to Snowy Mtn Boulders on the 9th was incredible. This area is unlike any other in the Northeast that I know of. Hueco pockets of all sizes have been carved out of the numerous boulders below Snowy just north of Speculator, NY. These pockets along with all of the other boulder features make for an incredible area to continue working at (as soon as the black flies give permission in a month or so). Our day there was decent with overcast skies, a little wind and virtually no black flies yet. Some good sends went down. Everyone got at least one V6, a few got V7s and one V8 went down. Can't wait to go back later in the summer.

Today we made a bit of a longer drive up to McKenzie Pond Boulders. This was my first visit there and I was instantly extatick. A lot of classic problems got sent today. JP got the two he had his eyes on for the day (IF and Thrust Fault). Ben got his V7 Magnum and made good progress on a V8 Flux Capacitor. Luke sent a few V5s. Jess is SO CLOSE on Brock Lee Soares. I sent many of the classic easier problems that I wanted for the day (BLSoares, IF, Slot Machine, Great Roof, Time will Tell, Slobadon).

There will definitely be many more trips up north this summer to these areas.

New Video posted

2009-05-08T16:48:00.000-07:00

JP just put together an awesome video of some of our sends down South last month. You gotta check it out. It is on the top of my video bar.

Tomorrow (May 9) we'll be venturing up to Snowy Mtn. Boulders in the Adks. Hope the black flies aren't too bad yet :-)

Good sends at 9 Corners

2009-05-04T10:48:00.001-07:00

Last Saturday was a beautiful spring day at 9 Corners in the Adirondacks. JP, Kyle, Zack (Kyle's son) and I had a great afternoon of climbing. We all sent The Origin (a tough V4), took big falls off of Heart Attack Man and made quick work of a V6 on the Saccarine Boulder. Kyle and I also sent Long Live Legos (V5) and another V5 at Saccarine. I worked Thorazine (V8) and it is close for me.
As soon as the black flies let up in JULY, we'll go back to finish off more projects.

Personal trip to Virgin Gorda

2009-05-04T10:23:00.000-07:00

Last week, my wife and daughter and I did a little personal vacation back to Virgin Gorda. We went last year in June and learned enough about the place to want to do another trip this year and to do it a little better than last time.
We stayed at the best possible place for beach bouldering (Guavaberry Spring Bay) and had four full days to play.
I bouldered each morning from about 8-11am before we went back to our 'hut' for lunch and a rest during the heat of the day. I climbed two days at Spring Bay, one at Devil's Bay and one at Little Trunk Bay. I was able to repeat many of the problems that I hit up last year and also did a few new ones (everything at Little Trunk). My toughest send was a V8 called Termite Highway at Little Trunk Bay. It is a problem that comes out through a roof and I worked it a little last year as well. This year it rained for a few minutes on our last day so most problems were wet, but I knew Termite would be dry, so I went and worked it for about 30 minutes before sending.
Still have many projects to do there, much of what I have left undone I would want to do with a spotter. There are so many great highball problems there, but with a two year old, my wife is a bit too preoccupied to spot me.
Can't wait to go back in the future.

Download a Little Rock City bouldering guide

2009-04-20T12:45:00.001-07:00

Here is an older guide for the Stone Fort Triple Threat Comp.
Some of the projects are now sent and others even downgraded. But this should get you going if you have never been to the Stone Fort before.
Remember to check out www.seclimbers.org for info on how to register for the day there. There are a few steps to take, but it isn't too much of a hassle.

Find the link on the sidebar in "tough to find bouldering topos"

Finally a sunny day

2009-04-16T05:55:00.000-07:00

Waking up this morning, you could just tell it was going to be beautiful. I'm writing as we cook pancakes and the sun is just beaming down on us. We are heading back to Rocktown for a third day and our last of the trip.
Yesterday we did a second day at Little Rock City on the golf course. It was overcast and nearly about to rain the whole day but somehow we got sun burned?
We began the day with JP sending his V6 project that he was working on Tuesday. His first try on Wednesday was successful and we then moved. I then tried a balancey V6 and sent after a few goes. Then Luke sent his V6 project from Tuesday, while Ben split his finger tip on the first try on it and was done for the day.
We are really looking forward to going hard on our last day and sending some projects remaining at Rocktown.

Climbing on a Golf Course???

2009-04-15T05:34:00.001-07:00

Although it was overcast nearly all day, the rain did hold off and we got a great day of climbing in at Little Rock City. The climbing is located in the woods along the 9th hole of Montlake Golf Course. It is a very interesting set up, as you park in the course parking lot, check in at the clubhouse, then jump into the woods for some of the most beautiful climbing I have ever seen.
Everyone had a great day of sends. Many V4s, V5s, V6s, and a few V7s were polished off.
We are already checked in for another great day there today with beautiful weather forecasted.

Rain Rain, Go Away!

2009-04-14T06:14:00.001-07:00

We've had two straight nights of steady rain. And with not much wind this morning, it feels like it will take a while to dry things out for climbing. We'll have a nice big breakfast and take our time getting out of camp. But head to Little Rock City to at least scout things out and climb whatever is dry.
Yesterday was a great rest day. We hit up the gear store (of course) and then the Aquarium, which was a real treat. For lunch we HAD to do Sonic. There are commercials for Sonic all the time around us, but no restaurant within hundreds of miles. The slushes were the hit of the trip (and half price after 2pm :)

Two incredible days in Rocktown

2009-04-12T18:33:00.001-07:00

After a super long drive (17 hours over two days) we spend the last two days bouldering on super rough slopers at Rocktown. There have been too many great sends to list out, but we have rolled through many moderates (V3-7). Tomorrow looks like a definite rainy day, so we'll take the intended rest day and head to the Tennessee Aquarium.
More info to come, but here are a few pictures for now.

Chattanooga here we come

2009-04-07T10:49:00.000-07:00

Our team is set and psyched. A small group of solid climbers will be rolling do to the South for six days of hard sending. We'll be hitting up Rocktown, Little Rock City and T-Wall (maybe Horse Pens 40 too) to throw down as many problems as our skin will hold up for.
Our team is made up of Luke, Ben, JP, Jess, Michelle and myself.
We hope to update our blog often throughout the trip, so keep checking back. We drive down Thursday and Friday and will climb Saturday - Thursday, returning home by Saturday the 18th.
Wish us tough skin and strong tendons.

Good Sends at GB

2009-04-02T12:58:00.001-07:00

Last weekend we returned to Great Barrington to slaughter some of the projects we had gathered over the fall and winter. The send train hit the tracks early, as JP polished off Scary Mantelo, Crystal Quartz Problem and SPAC. Kyle also sent CQP and SPAC for the first time.

Next it was Ben and My turn to throw down Green Goddess, a V7 that we sussed out on that icy day a few months ago. We knew it would go. For Ben it was first try of the day, but it took me 6-7 tries.

For the middle part of the day, not much went down. Ben made it to the last move on a new V9 that he started work on. Kyle and I also made it to the last move on a new V6. We were nowhere near hitting Fen Fen, a V7 project from the icy day.

We finished off the day sending some easier but very fun stuff up above the Filter wall. We had no idea what they were but we figured they went at V2, V3, V3 and V4. The V4 had incredible moves down low but the top out was super challenging.

This weekend looks rainy, but we may hit P-Kill if it holds out.

Back in Action

2009-03-24T10:33:00.000-07:00

I haven't published in a while because I have given my fingers a two-week rest while attending to other weekend activities (Namely a middle school conference of 600 kids). But the boys haven't missed a Saturday, rolling out to Triple Right on the 14th and the Carriage Road on the 21st. They have continued to throw down some V4s, 5s and 6s. Very impressive stuff.
I'm excited to get back on rock this week, as I'm teaching a Sport Leading class Mon, Wed and Sat. And I hope to get out and climb something hard on Friday as well.
The boys are very excited about the 200 new holds that the gym acquired last week and were pumped to show me all the new routes they were setting.
Spring is lookin' up.

Spring is almost here

2009-03-08T12:08:00.000-07:00

We've had two great Saturdays in a row climbing down at the Gunks. Yesterday was especially superb. With 60+ degree temps and a huge crew rolling down, we got the send train going early. Everyone got to polish off a few of the classic moderates, including Sam who had his first outdoor bouldering day ever.
G and Kyle both sent their first V5s. Mark his first V4 and Ben had the send of the day a V6 Marrakesh Express.

Very soon all the snow will be gone and we'll diversify a little more in where we visit each weekend.

Until Spring...

Ah School vacation week

2009-02-20T15:28:00.000-08:00

Today is the last day of winter break, so we got one more day of climbing outdoors. It was a send-fest at the Near Trapps today as JP sent his first V6 (Out of the Ashes), and Ben and I both sent 2 V6s (Ashes, Cream Cheese) and a V8 (The Pearl).
The weather was chilly but not terrible. Really couldn't ask for a more successful day.

Outdoors in CO

2009-02-19T11:54:00.000-08:00

After our weekend of indoor comps was over, we made the most of our time in such a beautiful climbing state, by heading outdoors.
First we hit up the Satellite Boulders in the Flatirons. After completing the maze of trails to find the boulders, Ben worked the V9 Turning Point. JP and I sent a V4 and worked a few V6s. It was chilly and a bit snowy (nothing like NY) but we got a good session in.

Monday was a beautiful day and we headed up to the Millennium Boulder outside of Morrison. We got the recommendation from the fellas at the Satellites and scoped it out online that night. What we found was an unbelievable glacial erratic just sitting out in a field. This boulder had one and two finger pockets dotted here and there. There were sharp crimps, textured slopers, great top outs and very hard problems. The weather was perfect, the hike in wasn't too bad (about 20-25 minutes of relatively flat terrain) and the others climbing there were enjoyable company.

After such a great day, we all left really amped for spring to arrive in NY sometime soon.

Results from Nationals

2009-02-18T12:32:00.000-08:00

We had an incredible time out in Colorado this weekend. It was nice to fly out on Wednesday night and have Thurs and Fri to acclimatize before climbing hard.
On Saturday morning at The Spot, Luke completed his qualifying round strong enough to secure a place in finals.
From there we ran over to The Boulder Rock Club for the Citizen's Comp. JP climbed strong and finished 4th in Intermediate, as probably the youngest in his category. I finished 9th in Advanced, which I was happy with as well.
As soon as the Citizen's Comp ended, we ran Ben back to the Spot for his qualifying round. Ben was the very last competitor of the day to go, so he was left with the greasiest holds. He did his best against very strong competition, but missed the cut for finals.
On Sunday morning, Luke competed in finals, finishing the first problem and making good progress on the second. He finished 8th overall, which is a great showing.
It was an incredible experience to be a part of. A real wake up call to how much stronger we can really be if we put our minds to it.

Nationals here we come

2009-02-11T09:49:00.000-08:00

Today we'll be heading out to the indoor bouldering National Championships in (fittingly) Boulder, Colorado. Luke was invited to compete in the Youth B division (13-14) and Ben in the Junior division (17-18). There will be qualifiers on Saturday and Finals on Sunday.

JP and I have entered the Citizen's Competition which will also be on Saturday. We'll do a little bit of running around so that we can watch everyone and compete in the same day (two different gyms a few blocks apart).

Following the competition we'll have a day to do some outdoor climbing before we fly back on Tuesday morning.

The trip should be relaxing for the first few days while we get acclimated to the higher elevation, but then pick up in a whirlwind of activity.

We'll post the results as soon as we receive them.

Wish us luck.

A few 'great??' days out

2009-02-09T12:07:00.000-08:00

The team has gotten out to Great Barrington and the Gunks the lat two weekends.

We went to GB not knowing what we would find for conditions. What we found wasn't great. All of our intended routes had ice on many of the holds. We were able to do some eliuminates, but no one topped anything out all day. Ben worked a V9 called Filter. I worked a few V7s (Green Goddess and one on the Filter wall). JP, Kyle and Luke worked a few things as well, but like I said, no one could claim a 'send' that day.

This past weekend was another story. JP started the 'send train' by dispensing with his first outdoor V4 - The Andrew Boulder Problem. Congrats JP. Ben kept the train rolling by completing a V6 - The Following - second try. Then Michael polished off a V8 - The Art of Nothing and a V6 - Merrakesh Express. I had a few repeat sends and made good progress on the V6s, but no new sends.

Wish the picture was bigger for you.

So conflicted about the sun

2009-01-28T10:21:00.001-08:00

We had a beautiful day of bouldering at the Gunks last Saturday. Everywhere else was cold and windy, but we were sheltered and got tons of sun all day. The sun is both good and bad for winter bouldering. It is nice, because you don't freeze your butt off, but it also melts the snow and sends water running down your favorite project.
One of my goals for the day was to send Black Boulder a V5 project of mine. In the morning we cleaned it off, but that sent water running all over the slopy holds. We decided to clean it totally and come back to it at the end of the day to see if the sun and breeze had dried it.
Next we went to The Bhudda, a V7 which Luke and Ben and I worked along with four other guys. Ben sent it (a repeat for him) and then water started running over a critical hold, so we had to move on.
Next we went to The Following and The Meaning of Life (V6 and V5 respectively). We spent a bunch of time trying to dry up The Following, but to no avail. Then we worked The Meaning for a while until we decided it would have to wait for another day (one when we could actually top out).
We tried Boxcar, which was wet on the critical holds. And then we went back to Black Boulder. It was dry, as we had hoped and both Luke and I sent it in just a few tries.

Enjoyable day. Even with the wetness. Can't wait til Spring.

Heading to Nationals

2009-01-26T11:45:00.000-08:00

Luke and Ben have accepted invitations to compete in the ABS Nationals on Feb. 14-15. Luke in the Youth B age group (13-14), Ben in the Juniors (17-18). Our team will be flying out to Denver, CO for the long weekend. JP and I may compete in the Citizens' Comp as well.
We are very excited for this incredible opportunity and for a cool weekend together. Please remember to send cheers our way on Saturday the 14th.

ABS Regionals

2009-01-18T12:34:00.000-08:00

The Shiloh's Edge team had a great showing at regionals, placing all four of its climbers in the finals, including Coach Adam.
Ben didn't have much competition, being the only one in his age group, but he sent some very hard problems, including a V8 twice (he didn't like how he finished the first time)
It was a very long day as the qualifiers went from 9-1 (we finished at 12 and went out for lunch) and then the finals began at 4 and went until about 7pm.
Luke and Ben both were invited to Nationals next month. JP had a great showing in finals, making huge progress on a problem that no one else in his age group could finish. Unfortunately, he inadvertantly used the wrong foot chip and didn't get the points for a completed route.
I also was happy with my finals showing, nearly flashing (completing first try) the first problem. It was fun to be a part of this huge event and we are excited for nationals.

Jan 10, Indoor Comp at ECity

2009-01-18T12:29:00.001-08:00

Our home gym hosted an ABS comp on Jan. 10. There was a pretty decent turnout. I think 46 in all. There were a few easier than expected routes, but for the most part, the comp went off without a hitch.
JP won his Intermediate catagory. Sending some solid V5s, good on ya.

Gunks bouldering, Jan. 3

2009-01-18T11:54:00.000-08:00

Ben and JP and I hit up the Carriage Rd on a beautiful January day for some great bouldering. Ben had a particular V9 (called Yikes) in mind that he wanted to work on. He made great progress on it but the top was icy and dripping, so he couldn't even attempt to finish it that day.
JP sent a really nice V3 (Tweeky Crack) and I sent a few V4 problems that had been projects for years.
The middle part of the day was so sunny and nice that we had striped our jackets off. JP was even in short sleeves for a little while.

The snow has now taken over and we can't wait for the annual January thaw.

Icy and Snowy, but still a Merry Christmas

2008-12-22T09:54:00.000-08:00

Here in NY we have had two major storms over the last few weeks. The first came in the form of freezing rain and ice, which knocked out power all over the Capital Region. For some, it was almost a week without power. Many homes were destroyed by falling trees or flooding (no power to the sump pumps). JP and Ben both live in the 'Old Niskayuna' section of town which HAD many beautiful old trees. This was probably the worst area hit in the state because of the tight neighborhood and the old trees.
JPs basement was destroyed, as his step brother woke up to step in a sinking carpet. Ben's family had a tree fall and hit both of their vehicles. Not a total loss, but significant damage was done. Miraculously, I live in one of the few areas that never lost power. Other sections of Troy were considered states of emergency, but my neighborhood seems untouched.
This storm hit on the 11th and 12th. The roads were clear on the 13th, so Luke, JP and I made the 3.5 hour trip to Newburyport, MA for a competition. We all climbed very well and both Luke and JP were bumped up from their intended division. None of us placed, so we are not sure yet where our scores landed us.

The second storm came a week later, as we had nearly a foot of snow on Friday the 19th. We had hoped to climb outdoors, but with the roads still terrible on Saturday morning and the climbs surely covered in snow, I had the guys come over and climb in my attic. We had fun setting some new routes up there for a few hours and then we rolled up to a small local competition in Queensbury. This was a bouldering and top roping competition (you had to do at least two climbs of each). Ben and I scored many of the same problems, but he styled his way up the hardest wall route and went on to win the whole comp, beating me by about 300 points. (I took second) JP also climbed well, placing 3rd in Intermediate.

We'll now have a break from competitions until Jan. 10th, when our home gym, Electric City will host a final ABS comp before regionals. However, we'll try to get outdoors a day or two during Christmas break.

Merry Christmas

Catching up

2008-12-10T09:36:00.000-08:00

Since mid November, we have done both an outdoor trip and another local comp. On Nov. 22nd, a crew of us headed down to Peter's Kill in southern NY. It was a very cold and windy day, but we had some good sends. Most of us hit Mentos (V4) and Luke sent his project Delicate Soul V7. Ben made good progress on Village Idiot V7 but P-Kill is now closed for the winter so his send will have to wait until spring.

On Monday Dec. 1, we rolled up to train at RockSport in Queensbury. It was a very fun and productive evening session, as they set great routes up there and we sent many of them.

On Thursday Dec. 4, Electric City hosted the EMS sponsored 'Circuit Breaker' competition which was both bouldering and climbing. Ben took 4th overall and I finished 5th. JP was 2nd in the intermediate category with many nice sends.

Ben made a trip down to the Gunks on Sunday the 7th with a few strong climbers from the gym. He was able to send Black Boulder V5 and Boxcar Arete V8.

For those who aren't familiar with the V-scale rating system, V0-V1 are on the easier side, V2-V4 are intermediate, V5-V7 are advanced routes and V8 and above are very difficult. If you know the YDS climbing scale, V0 is equivalent to 5.10, V4 is like a 5.12b, and V7 is like 5.13a.

Depending on the snow and rainfall, we will be attempting to get outdoors as much as possible on Saturdays this winter. There is also another EMS sponsored competition at RockSport on the 20th that we will be attending.

Petra Cliffs, Nov. 15

2008-11-16T10:39:00.000-08:00

As I expected, this competition was incredible. The routes that they set are always a ton of fun and everyone filled up their scorecard pretty quickly. Matt Stoker (a graduated Shiloh's Edge participant) joined us for the trip. I believe that everyone was happy with their performance and the prizes they collected. There were many strong climbers there, both men and women. Ben had a great showing, taking 1st place in the Advanced category. Stoker took 1st in Intermediate and JP was 3rd in Intermediate. I also was pleased with my climbing and finished 7th in the Advanced category.

Rhode Island Rock Gym Nov. 9

2008-11-16T10:28:00.000-08:00

Wow! This comp was insane. 130 registered competitors jammed into like a 20x30 foot area. JP, Ben and I waited in line for like 15 minutes each time we wanted to get on a climb. It was very difficult to do well when you couldn't workout the moves on the route. You fall, you're done for another 15 minutes.
JP did really well. Tallying the high score of the three of us and taking 3rd in his Youth B division. I finished second in the Intermediate category and Ben took second in Juniors.
We were pretty disappointed about how the comp was organized and learned a few things to remember when we host a comp at Electric City in January.
Another disappointment came when I brought my disposable camera to be developed and found out that there was only one picture on the roll.

Stone Age comp, Nov. 1

2008-11-05T09:06:00.000-08:00

The weather for the day was fairly iffy, so rather than chance getting rained on, we headed for the Stone Age gym competition in CT. We attended the comp at this gym last year and remembered that although the scene was a little to competitive ("the Mothers" situation is how we refer to anxious and stress inducing parents at competitions) they set pretty fun problems.
Being that it was the day after Halloween, the attendance was a little thin, maybe 25-30 competitors. However, as expected, the problems were very fun to work and were varied in style and wall angle, which makes for a great competition.

Luke and JP are both freshmen and are in the Youth B category. They were praying for at least two more competitors in their age group so that full points would be awarded from the ABS (a national ranking system). There did happen to be five in the category at the comp, but only three turned in their score cards, so it was not considered a 'full' category. Both guys found some advanced problems to send as well as some intermediate and finished first and second, respectively. Luke beat JP by just 10 points (the difference of one fall over the course of the afternoon).

I was excited to start the day off with a few sends of some advanced slopper problems. This sparked a great day for me and I went on to win the Advanced category and finish with the third highest score for the day (Open category is above Advanced).

Next weekend, the Rhode Island competition starts early Sunday morning, so we will travel out Saturday night and stay about an hour away, giving us an extra 2-3 hours to sleep.

Carabiners, New Bedford, MA 10/25

2008-10-27T16:02:00.000-07:00

Although we had to cancel our outdoor climbing plans due to the serious rain storm approaching, we made the most of the day by attending a not-so-local competition.

Ben, Luke and I made the long drive down to New Bedford for the Carabiner's comp. The 12 hour day was well worth it, as we all come home with victories, great prizes, and a fun day together.

Ben climbed very strong, finishing 1st in the Advanced category and with the 3rd highest score of the day. Luke took 1st place in his Youth B category and I took 1st in the Intermediate category.

The gym was enormous and was showcasing their brand new feature, a 14 foot boulder, which added about 1200-1300 new square feet of climbing surface to the gym.

Next weekend, back to CT for the Stone Age competition.

CT Rock Gym comp

2008-10-21T09:40:00.000-07:00

The team made the 3 hour trip down to New Haven on the 18th and had a pretty decent showing at the ABS Bouldering Comp.
JP took 3rd place in the Intermediate category, even sending one of the Advanced problems.
In the Advanced category, Ben took 3rd, Luke 4th and I was 5th.
JP was very pleased with his showing. Ben, Luke and I were wishing for a few problems that we could have worked on. For all three of us, the problems that we sent were on the first or second try and those that we couldn't send seemed many steps above us, not just one or two, or they were too painful to work on for many tries.

This weekend we will make the most of the remaining fall weather and climb outdoors at MacKenzie Ponds in the Northern Adirondacks. And on the 1st we'll head back to CT for a competition at Stone Age in Manchester.

9 Corners - Columbus Day

2008-10-15T15:53:00.000-07:00

Ben and I took Steve, our new ropes course ultra-volunteer, out to 9 Corners Lake for some bouldering. As usual, I forgot my camera. However, we had a send-fest out there, rolling through about 15-20 problems.
I sent 13, up to a V4 in the Cave area. Ben also sent 13, including one of his projects from the summer, a V4 'Power of Belief'. Steve enjoyed his first visit to 9 Corners and sent a few V3s.

We've got an indoor competition in CT this weekend and will probably head outdoors again on the 25th. May be hitting up Snowy Mountain Boulders.

Opening ABS comp - Gravity Vault, NJ

2008-10-06T08:24:00.000-07:00

This weekend we attended the opening American Bouldering Series competition for this area. It was a juniors only competitions, so I didn't get to attempt the routes along with the guys, which was kind of disappointing. I think some of them like to try to beat me ;-) and sometimes they succeed.
Anyway, it was a learning experience for two of the guys, as they burned themselves out attempting many difficult routes and only completed 2 or 3 routes (instead of the required 5).
Only one of our guys climbed to his potential and had energy for the entire 3.5 hours of climbing. He took 6th place in his age group, a good start to the season for him.
The gym was excellent and the routes were good as well.
They are definitely excited to redeem themselves at the next comp, which is in CT on the 18th. Hopefully they'll have learned from their mistakes and get some points on their cards before trying to push their limits.

Nor'easter Climbing Festival (Sunday)

2008-09-30T08:42:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, we again got up early and were the first ones to the mountain, however, the night of rain must have come in from a different direction because now everything was wet. We attempted one route that seemed dry enough, but it was just too difficult to make any good progress on with dampness all around. There was literally a waterfall coming down the route five feet right of what we were attempting. We decided to just pack it up and make the 4 hour trek home.

All in all, we had a great time and I believe we made the most of the weekend, climbing as much as possible and enjoying meeting the pros. We'll have to make a return trip to Rumney on a drier weekend to really get all the great climbing in that we missed out on with the rain.

Nor'easter Climbing Festival (Saturday)

2008-09-30T08:34:00.001-07:00

The SECT was not so eager to give up on our climbing for the weekend. We woke up early and hopped on the first bus over to the mountain. As I suspected, there were plenty of routes dry enough to keep us busy. We spent the entire morning climbing on the most impressive crag at Rumney. We really had to push ourselves on the harder routes which stayed dryer then all the moderates. In the afternoon, we went back down the hill and found some bouldering to attempt. Much of it was wet, but there were plenty of people trying to make the best of it and climb anyway. We finished the climbing day with a nice moderate that somehow stayed dry down near the parking lot and then hopped the bus back to the Tenney Mountain basecamp.

For an hour or so before dinner, we roamed around and chatted with the pros. They were surprised that we had found dry routes and seemed disappointed that they hadn't wandered up to climb as well. After an incredible homemade pizza dinner, we went back up and listened to music in the rain until 10pm before retiring to the van.

10/4 Gravity Vault - ABS Competitions begin

2008-09-29T08:53:00.000-07:00

This Saturday, Oct. 4, the Team will begin its competition bouldering schedule. We will travel to Gravity Vault in NJ for the first of 8-10 competitions that we will attend this fall/winter. I'll update this post next week with the results of how we finished.

Nor'easter climbing festival (Friday)

2008-09-29T08:34:00.000-07:00

EMS put on what was supposed to be a festival for climbing, music and conservation. The Shiloh's Edge Climbing Team (SECT) was psyched to attend. Despite the rain, rain and more rain, we had a great time. The big climbing day was supposed to be Saturday, with nearly a dozen of the top professional climbers competing on outdoor routes and running clinics. However, because of all the rain Friday night they canceled the climbing activities and showed slide shows Saturday morning.

While most folks were setting up their tents in the rain and camping in the mud, we decided to take "Uncle Rico" up to the festival, take out the back seat, and all sleep in there. It was really a blessing to have this vehicle, despite it's age, rust and gas consumption. The guys are very much in love with "Rico" now and have already named new routes at the gym after the 1991 Chevy Beauville with 144,000 miles.